How To Clean A Ruger Single Six

• #1

JWFilips

Single-Sixer

Joined

May 6, 2011

Messages

104

Hi,
I know this will sound like a stupid question
( specially since I have been handling guns about of my life) But I recently got my outset "revolver" ...never had one before. Information technology is a 1972 three screw with both the .22lr and .22mag cylinders, Information technology is in excellent shape & I want to keep it that fashion.
What is the all-time manner to make clean a .22 revolver subsequently shooting? It there anything special to accept intendance of? Are y'all guys bronze brushing? What most the cylinders...are they cleaned differently? Are yous needing special solvents ( like demote balance or sweets)? & is in that location any different procedures afterwards shooting the copper clad .22 mags? Just wanting to know what to look out for.
Sorry for the twenty questions.

• #2

wwb

Hunter

Joined

Nov xviii, 2004

Messages

2,780

On an onetime 3-screw that's a contempo acquisition, a complete disassembly, cleaning, and lube is chosen for. After that, a lick and a promise after a shooting session is all you need.....

Pull the cylinder and brush the chambers with #9 or something like. Then run a dry patch through each pigsty, followed by an oily patch.

Clean the bore with a bronze brush and your choice of solvent, dry it and oil it.

Wipe the whole affair downwards with a lightly oiled rag and put it away.

I re-make clean the innards nigh every x years, except for my one "trail gun" that sees a lot of pelting, clay, and other assorted junk..... that one gets the innards cleaned nearly every 2-3 years.

• #3

flatgate

Hawkeye

Joined

Jun eighteen, 2001

Letters

vi,784

One hint. Always fully bicycle the "lockwork". That is, when loading or unloading get in the habit of e'er pulling the hammer to "full cock" after utilizing the "half cock" characteristic. Always. That will prevent the cylinder latch from dragging on the cylinder and creating an unsightly ring.

Think the age old rule:

Always carry the gun with the hammer down on an empty chamber.

That "quarter cock safety notch" is unreliable. A dropped gun can burn!.

Load an empty cylinder by inserting a cartridge into one chamber, rotate the cylinder to the next sleeping accommodation simply do not insert a cartridge. Rotate to the adjacent chamber and insert a cartridge. Go on loading the next three chambers. Shut the loading gate, carefully pull the hammer to Full Cock so carefully lower it down to the "at residual" position. The hammer should now be resting over the Empty Sleeping accommodation!

Load i, skip i, load four, pull hammer to full cock and then lower. The ONLY way to dispense an Quondam Model Ruger!

Enjoy your fine one-time Unmarried-Six!

flatgate

• #4

JWFilips

Single-Sixer

Joined

May half dozen, 2011

Messages

104

Both excellent posts....Thank You

I had a chance to shoot it at the range today...very exciting. These no doubt are quality pieces. It shot very well with three different .22lr brands & types. I can also see it is far more accurate then I can ever shoot. A plus for me on this one is it has the adjustable rear and partridge front site which is far easier for me to use ( my eyesight is not the best recently) I got a few nice groups with a more than and so occasional flyer....like I said this revolver thing is new to me. Merely all & all I enjoyed my new "Old Single Half dozen" Simply wish I had more time on the range just I had to head in to work by apex.
Flategate I really like that loading sequence: a good & simple rule. I was doing a lot of spinning to get the empty sleeping room to line up....now y'all brand information technology easy.
Thanks Again
Jim

• #5

alkpon

Bearcat

Joined

Mar 1, 2010

Messages

91

JW, don't fret cleaning. Oiled cloth for exterior. Pull a Boresnake through barrel and cylinders. Spray Boresnake with a little WD-40, carb cleaner or whatever.
I'g 'ol school. For .22 Rimfire....more barrels/cylinders screwed up with brushes, tubes, solvents, etc....
Particularly for .22 Rimfire......they are more accuarate, generally, when "dirty".
Shoot the hell out of it, wipe outside with oil rag, Boresnake every once in while.....no brushes

• #6

Hondo44

Hawkeye

Joined

April three, 2009

Messages

7,672

The cylinder line scribed by the bolt latch is most the near obvious sign of wear. Not just a sign of shooting but also of cycling. If you aren't already aware, there'due south 2 things that y'all can practise to minimize further scribing:

1st, is what flatgate said most always fully cycling the hammer all the fashion back earlier down.

Secondly, inspect the surface of the bolt latch. It'southward very common to still come across the original file marks and abrupt edges from 'plumbing fixtures' the bolt at the factory which piece of work like a file against the cylinder finish. I like to very carefully and GENTLY smoothen and smoothen the bolt surface to a mirror finish to prevent farther cylinder line wearable. It can be washed in the gun by taping around information technology to protect all surrounding blued surfaces. It will not affect your cylinder timing; just don't go 'grunter wild' on polishing it.

One other thing: no matter how skillful the holster quality, the lining and fit, you will go some blue wear if y'all use a holster. Not a problem, just so that yous know it going in.

Source: https://www.rugerforum.com/threads/117261/

Posted by: mettsdephateras1993.blogspot.com

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