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Can I Clean My Krieghoff With Brake Cleaner

Dallas4rceMarine

  • #4

we used to use brake cleaner in the Marines at the cease of a long day of shooting and it worked peachy for getting rid of carbon build upwards. However afterward you patch it and its clean you need to re-make clean it with regular gun cleaner like CLP or Hoppes #9 and get what information technology missed while also re lubricating the metal. Those aerosols can exist harmful if you let them dry out the metal.

  • #13

If you run a patch through and it comes out clean, why do you run ten more and and then follow up with 10 additional dry patches? What'south the point of 20 additional make clean patches through the bore if you lot are not removing anything?

You are correct. I used the brake make clean with the commencement x and then the dry out because I forgot to bring the copper solvent (Bore Tech Eliminator) and at the end I ran Super Tech oil on a patch through the bore. When I become gear up to shoot once again I run a patch with brake clean through the bore then a dry out patch.

  • SUPER TECH OIL .JPG

    SUPER TECH OIL .JPG

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  • BORE TECH ELIMINATOR .jpg

    BORE TECH ELIMINATOR .jpg

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  • #xiv

Going to kick this upwards. I'm starting to hear restriction cleaner is a no go. Any idea why?

Kamerad

  • #17

I utilize it also. You run a AR for a couple k rounds suppressed and there is no better way to clean the lower in my stance. Then i spray a light oil all over trigger and accident out the lower with compressed air... brake cleaner does well on the bcg, upper receiver and lug surface area.

I reckon Restriction cleaner would exist hell on the extractor o-ring, if present.

E. Bryant

  • #18

I reckon Restriction cleaner would be hell on the extractor o-ring, if present.

It's generally safe on "rubber" (constructed elastomers). Modern brake cleaner is very tame stuff. Old-school carb cleaner was a different story, simply it's been a long time since I've come across the formulations with methylene chloride.

Kamerad

  • #19

It'due south generally prophylactic on "condom" (constructed elastomers). Modern brake cleaner is very tame stuff. Old-school carb cleaner was a unlike story, but it's been a long fourth dimension since I've come beyond the formulations with methylene chloride.

Well, I learned something today!! Thanks for the info.

Tiger_Shilone

  • #21

Going to boot this upwardly. I'm starting to hear brake cleaner is a no go. Any idea why?

Clorinated brake cleaners give off phosgene gas when exposed to loftier temps. Read a report in an Air-conditioning maintenance circular advisory article a few years ago where a welder had cleaned parts prior to welding with clorinated restriction cleaner considering he was out of alcohol and didn't realize there was a pocket-sized pool of it still remaining when he started welding. Guy wound up with permanent nerve impairment IIRC. Since I read that article I stick with defended gun cleaners.

  • #23

I still clean with normal products. I just use restriction cleaner to clean out excessive lube and carbon. More often than not on my suppressed guns. And then the commencement footstep is blast out all the gunk then make clean normally.

I do the verbal opposite. I make clean normally. Then use brake cleaner to remove any residuum from pistol slides to remove cleaning solvents from the firing pin channel. Never in a bore. Sometimes blast out a lower afterward wiping with gun cleaning products.

  • #25

Brake cleaner will get into the pores of your metal. Later on you finish cleaning and lube information technology upwards and put it abroad, the brake cleaner will leach out and dissolve the lube. I told a pretty high terminate pistol smith that I was cleaning His guns with brake cleaner, and he got pissed! He explained about the leaching and it made sense. Haven't used it since. I really, really trust this smith.

I did not know about this but information technology makes sense.

Clorinated brake cleaners requite off phosgene gas when exposed to high temps. Read a report in an Ac maintenance circular advisory article a few years ago where a welder had cleaned parts prior to welding with clorinated brake cleaner considering he was out of booze and didn't realize there was a small puddle of it still remaining when he started welding. Guy wound upward with permanent nerve impairment IIRC. Since I read that article I stick with defended gun cleaners.

Besides a good indicate. I hit up the google car after reading this. Good betoken.

The whole affair for this started afterward watching one of the complimentary modern mean solar day sniper videos on rifle cleaning where Caylen says brake cleaner is a large no go for rifle cleaning.

  • #26

Then if I am understanding all this correctly the main bug with brake cleaner are the toxicity and leeching issues?

  • #28

The ar gas arrangement is self cleaning. No need to do annihilation with gas tube. Keep it lubed and shoot till you start seeing malfunctions or the gun starts running sluggish. Over and improper cleaning is the number 1 cause of impairment.

  • #29

The ar gas system is self cleaning. No need to do anything with gas tube. Proceed it lubed and shoot till you start seeing malfunctions or the gun starts running sluggish. Over and improper cleaning is the number ane cause of damage.

Yep my ARs get cleaned out once in a while just by and large simply keep them oiled. My chief concern was with bolt guns. I did some more googling and seems brake cleaner is to be avoided for some bluing and wood finishes.

E. Bryant

  • #32

A couple of things:

ane) In my experience, chlorinated brake cleaner is adequately uncommon, even in jurisdictions that still allow its sale and use. Most of the stuff I grab off the shelf at the local parts store is not-chlorinated/depression-VOC conception (and no, I don't live in California or some other state that mandates this stuff).

2) Excessively heating chlorinated compounds can indeed be very dangerous. Don't do that. Continue the stuff away from spacer heaters and open flames, and makes sure a part is completely dry before exposing it to high heat. Avoid the stuff for welding in full general. At normal room temperatures, the stuff evaporates pretty quickly and I've got very little concern virtually the health hazard of using it to clean a firearm. If y'all hose down the interior of a suppressor or similar component in libation weather, it may stick effectually for many minutes and so programme appropriately.

iii) As far as "drying the pores" of metal is concerned, solvents practice indeed pause downward and remove oils. That's basically the point of using them! And if the metallic is quite cold - like well below normal room temperature - a solvent can stick around long plenty to disturb a fresh awarding of oil or pigment. I've seen this before when working in an unheated shop during wintertime. In this case, make sure the solvent is completely evaporated by applying some compressed air, or take some patience. High-quality gun parts of the type nosotros are because hither do not take "pores" that are going to open up, trap solvent, close up, and and then wait patiently to destroy lubrication at a later time. Sintered self-lubricated bearings are a unlike story, and if your firearm contains such a part, act appropriately. I've also gotten screwed by cranks and what-not in porous castings when attempting to clean the surface and apply paint, but if this applies to someone'southward firearm, lubrication failures are likely low on the list of future problems.

Utilise solvent, dry solvent, use lube, and get on with life. The deeper the cleaning procedure, the more than work required to reapply lubrication.

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Source: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/cleaning-with-gun-scrubber-or-brake-cleaner-what-do-you-think.205461/

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