How To Install Wood Windows

When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style dwelling house, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were besides delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were nonetheless intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV'southward fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his coiffure to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were audio and foursquare, Tom could utilize insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen'southward Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with free energy-saving, depression-due east insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows sideslip right into the existing openings.

When the task was washed, the business firm had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old firm. Here's a look at how Tom fabricated the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Illustration past Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new structure, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from equally narrow as 11 ½ inches to as broad equally 68 inches, and come in forest, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood.

In that location are 3 basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and total-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton business firm—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Considering you're calculation new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before.

Total-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes caput jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the merely option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, y'all must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, within and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photo by Russell Kaye

The most of import step in the window-replacement process happens long earlier installation day. It'due south when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure yous order a replacement unit that's the right size. Here's how to exercise information technology.

• Offset past measuring the inside width of the onetime window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: beyond the top, middle, and lesser. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Adjacent, measure the frame's pinnacle from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in iii places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Cheque the squareness of the frame past measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the aforementioned. If the frame is out of square by ane/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement tin can be shimmed to fit. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is then out of whack that a foursquare replacement wouldn't look correct, you'll demand a full-frame replacement.
• Finally, use an bending-measuring tool to make up one's mind the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a pick of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The starting time footstep is to remove the one-time sash from the window frame. In well-nigh cases, you lot'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If yous're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break easily.)
• Next, accept out the parting beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't exist any beads. But press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forward.
• Then pivot one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, employ a apartment bar to pry them complimentary. In the instance of an original window, remove whatsoever remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Leave the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch whatsoever holes or cracks with an exterior-class wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• Then sand the jambs shine, and prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Former Sash Weights

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are all the same in place, have this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
• Unscrew the admission panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photograph by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it'due south more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Brand sure to utilize only depression-force per unit area, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
• First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then diameter 3/8-inch-diameter holes, 1 nearly each end and 1 in the center, down through the sill and up through the head jamb.

eight. Spray in the Foam

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, merely you can do the same job with cream from a tin can, like Dow'south Great Stuff.)
• Besides spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at least 6 hours, then interruption or cut it off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

nine. Caulk the Opening

Photo by Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner confront of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the elevation and sides of the frame. Also use ii continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Working from inside the room, gear up the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or bullheaded stops.

11. Fasten It Loosely

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with one two-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in only far plenty to allow the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Accommodate the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until information technology is centered in the infinite and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should exist the same. When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, sideslip a shim behind the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims affluent with a utility knife.

xiii. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than one/iv inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Annihilation wider must start be blimp with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding cream.
• Finish upwards by reinstalling the stops or calculation new ones.
• Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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